July 2020 Favourites List

I am back for another favourites list. Hope your month has been a good one.

I am hoping that you are all safe and well. I am sending you all warm wishes for your good health and safety.

What have I been doing? Not much which is noteworthy, I'm afraid. I have been working from home, doing things online and virtually, rather than in person. My workplace has still not yet opened up the buildings for us to have access, so travelling into Central London is not something I need to do yet. I'm lucky to be in employment in these uncertain times, and even more fortunate my work can currently be done online. 

Being at home has resulted in more time spent cooking, and more time spent in the garden. Looking for kitchen inspiration has become more important now than ever, and I am digging out my old cook books and scouring websites for ideas. I'm chatting about food online with my friends, and we are often swapping recipes, tips and ideas. There are some great foodie reads out there, with the Vittles newletter being a welcome new guest to my inbox. Initially conceived by Eater London writer (and mango lover) Jonathan Nunn as a food newsletter for these new and strange times, it has grown into a place for diverse, thoughtful, beautiful food writing and unique one-off artwork. You can investigate and/or sign up here: https://vittles.substack.com/


The current "new normal" in England involves wearing face coverings on public transport and in shops. It's a small, but effective way of keeping ourselves and other people safe. There are some who are resisting the requirement, but I think we are all generally thoughtful and considerate people, and from what I have seen most people are sticking to the rules. Maybe some of the refusers will change their mind, as they see public opinion is supportive of looking after each other. We shall see, as it is early days. 

Restaurants have been reopening these last two weeks. Some are simply ensuring they have social distancing. Others are taking greater additional precautions such as staff wearing masks, temperature testing customers before allowing them entry, asking people to sanitise hands on arrival and limiting the number of people going to the bathroom. The challenges faced by the hospitality industry are enormous and I am hoping that my favourite business, large and small, local and further afield are able to come through these difficult times.

Maybe I should have done what all the motivation people on social media told me to do with this time.... like write my first novel, learn a language, start my own business. But I think that's easy to say in the abstract when you aren't thinking about how difficult lockdown and social distancing can be. I've managed to get work stuff done. I've also succeeded in sitting down at my computer each day having showered, washed my hair and gotten dressed. I say that's good enough. Some of us have found these times a real strain, and if you found some days too much to take, I do understand. There have been days staying in my dressing gown all day, doing very little, has been tempting.

My students have been doing the best they can to prepare for next month's centrally set knowledge exams. Trying to revise the highly technical and fiddly subjects of civil and criminal litigation, and the nuanced and practical professional ethics in these conditions has undoubtedly been more stressful for them. I've been hearing from some of them, as they do their best to stay focussed and motivated on their revision. I am so impressed by their resilience, resolve and determination. Please join me in wishing them every success.  

So, onto this month's collection of the stuff which has kept me going this month.
Recipes: 

Mildred's is a brilliant vegetarian restaurant in London. From their cookbook, this is their roasted vegetable and puy lentil salad: http://www.mildreds.co.uk/2015/05/23/recipe-puy-lentil-salad/

An excellent critique of how badly the Times got their report on the Bon Appetit fiasco wrong by Jonathan Nunn and some thoughts on Sambal, with a recipe by Lara Lee: https://vittles.substack.com/p/vittles-216-sambal

Turkish Lahmacun (minced lamb topped baked flatbreads) rolled with salad is a favourite of mine. Here is a recipe for making them at home, from Kavey: https://www.kaveyeats.com/2020/06/homemade-lahmacun-lamb-flatbreads-easy-recipe.html
 

Romy Gill’s radish recipes: http://archive.is/12MW0

Coleslaw with sesame and charred chillies recipe http://archive.is/CKDuP

Stale bread, ripe tomatoes and olive oil combine with store cupboard ingredients to make Tuscan salad Panzanella: https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/panzanella
 

Kim Neilsen recreates a Danish stew of pork loin and wiener sausages from his childhood: https://nordicfoodliving.com/danish-pork-stew-morbradgryde/
 

Bored of the same old salad dressing? Here are 10 simple quick dressings to help you mix it up a little. https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/howto/guide/10-salad-dressings-you-can-make-minutes
 

Pasta all'Amatrice, bucatini pasta with a sauce of pancetta, tomatoes: http://www.thepasadenachef.com/2020/03/pasta-allamatrice.html
 

Karen Gokani, the director of Hoppers in London, shares four Sri Lankan seafood recipes, Banana leaf mackerel, devilled prawns, Mussels hodi and pol sambol: https://www.theguardian.com/food/2020/jun/20/four-sri-lankan-seafood-recipes-for-a-spicy-staycation-treat

Food articles and writing: 

What is in season in July? http://www.eattheseasons.co.uk/july.php

How to avoid the most common baking errors and disasters: https://www.theguardian.com/food/2020/jun/25/dough-how-to-avoid-the-21-biggest-baking-disasters-from-burnt-cakes-to-soggy-pastry

Some philosophical thoughts about recipes. Are we becoming too constrained? With some interesting insights into Covid-19 era cooking. https://www.eater.com/2020/6/17/21255211/what-is-a-recipe

After recent revelations and many apologies from leading media outlets, there is still much which needs to be done to fix the racism in food writing and media: https://www.grubstreet.com/2020/06/food-media-must-work-harder-to-fix-racism.html

What you might have missed at Snig's Kitchen:

My vegan and vegetarian recipe for Okra fritters (bhindi bhaji): https://snigskitchen.blogspot.com/2020/07/spicy-crispy-bhindi-bhaji.html

Music:

Burning Spear – Marcus Garvey/Garvey’s Ghost
Julia Holter - Have You In My Wilderness
Nick Drake - Bryter Layter

Music writing:
"Greek, withouth the sex: Nick Drake and John Martyn's folk bromance" - an account of Beverley and John Martyn's friendship with Nick Drake: https://www.theguardian.com/music/2020/jul/15/nick-drake-john-martyn-complex-friendship-small-hours-extract

TV:
The Luminaries

Radiohead at Glastonbury 1997

The Cure at Glastonbury 2019
Beyonce at Glastonbury 2011

David Bowie at Glastonbury 2000

Movies:
Philomena
The Lady In The Van

Please note: as with every monthly Favourites List, all of these items have been selected by me simply because I love them. I do not receive any money, benefits in kind or other incentive for posting these links or recommendations.   

Spicy crispy bhindi bhaji

Okra, Ladies’ fingers, bhindi or dharoosh… there are many names for this green, geometric, pointy vegetable. It equally inspires very different reactions from its fans and its haters. 

 

The people who love it need no explanation as to the variety of ways of cooking bhindi. It can be stewed, curried, shallow fried and deep fried. Boiling is not recommended by me, but I am sure there are people who don’t mind it cooked that way.

The haters tend to dislike one thing in particular: the sliminess which can be present in this most maligned of vegetables. To those haters I say this – my recipe here uses chick pea flour which not only absorbs the moisture in the ladies’ fingers, but it also provides a basis for a "barely there" crispy batter.

I made this recipe in a frying pan, which I partly filled with vegetable oil. That oil I intend to reuse for other bhajis or pakoras. I try to use oil more than once if possible, except for when that first use is for meat and then a vegetable dish is likely to follow, or when I know the batter is likely to leave burned bits in the oil.

You could also cook these bhaji in a karahi/karai or a wok, a deep fat fryer or maybe even an air fryer. You will have to tweak the recipe accordingly.

This recipe is a great side dish for the curry of your choice or even with a simple dahl and rice. It is vegetarian and vegan. 

Even though there is chilli powder in this dish, the result was not hot. So I don't think you need to worry about the result being too fiery. If, however, you like it hot, feel free to either add a little more chilli powder or perhaps some cayenne powder. 

Spicy crispy bhindi bhaji

Recipe: 

250g okra/bhindi/ladies’ fingers

¼ teaspoon turmeric (for colour, so you could omit this)

½ teaspoon coriander

½ teaspoon cumin

½ teaspoon chilli powder

½ teaspoon amchur (green mango powder)

½ teaspoon Chaat masala – a tangy and spicy condiment well worth investigating (if you lack amchur, use more chaat masala and vice versa)

½ teaspoon salt

Vegetable/rapeseed/sunflower oil (amount depends on pan and method of frying used).

4 tablespoons of chick pea flour (besan).

You will need:

A large bowl, a small bowl, a frying pan, a spatula or similar, a large plate, kitchen paper, knife, chopping board, scales, measuring spoons.

Method:

1. Prepare your bhindi. It should be trimmed at the top, then quartered lengthwise. Put in a non-metallic bowl ready for being marinaded.  

2. Mix up all the spices and salt in a small bowl.  Pour over the okra, rub all over.

3. Leave to marinate for at least half an hour.

4. Measure out 4 tablespoons of chick pea flour (besan). Add two tablespoons and mix thoroughly. Add the rest bit by bit, mixing as you go. You only want to coat the okra a little. You don't want clumps.

5. Take a large frying pan and fill either half an inch or 1" with oil. Or alternatively, you could use a deep fat fryer filled with the same oil. I didn’t want to try this as I didn’t want bits of the batter coming off and potentially burning in the fryer. Cleaning it out is a necessary but unpleasant task!

6. Heat up the oil. Fry the okra in two batches. 

7. Put on kitchen paper to absorb excess oil. Lightly season with salt if needed.

8. Enjoy immediately!