Cremant Sparkling Wine tasting 2017

Last year, I wrote about how Cremant is the great “undiscovered bubbly”. We know Champagne, Cava and most recently have gone potty for Prosecco.

Cremant is a French fizzy wine. The production process has to follow strict guidelines; grapes must be hand gathered, no machines; double fermentation (the second being in the bottle) and only 8 regions of France are allowed to call their bubbles Cremant. The name hints at one of the essential qualities of the wine; a creamy texture across the mouth.

I was invited to Business France’s Cremant tasting for 2017 at Edel Assanti Gallery in London’s Soho where 12 producers were ready to show off their best bubblies. Chilled magnums of other notable Cremants were also waiting to shared. To top off this thoroughly French treat, savoury and sweet Macarons were available on tap!

I got started with Domaine Schwach (pronounced “shwah”). The name gives you a clue of their location, in Alsace, near the German border. I was guided around the Schwach wines by Eric Zweibel, a Dorset based expert (and award winning) Sommelier, originally from Alsace. I tried the Blanc de Blanc (made solely of pale/white grapes), a wine with hints of lemon aromas and sherbetty fizz. It has good complexity, as a result of the initial 12 month fermentation in lees. One to drink on its own for a celebration, or as an aperitif. Alsace’s dishes often feature smoked hams and smoked cheese, Eric advised this Cremant D’Alsace Blanc de Blancs would go well with these traditional foods. 

Next was a Blanc de Noirs, made from black/dark grapes, namely Pinot Noir (the same grape as Champagne). I detected a light pinky tinge in the colour, and the flavours were very different from the Blanc de Blancs; this was strong, structured and more “masculine” as described by Eric. Finally I tried the Cremant d’Alsace Chardonnay, a completely different wine, made by adding 4 grammes of sugar for the second in-bottle fermentation. The colour of this wine is incredibly pale, but the flavours exude pure elegance. Clean, rich, creamy on the palate, this 100% chardonnay sparkling wine is unique. Domaine Schwach is a modest 19 hectare winery, run by the same quality obsessed family for three generations, their wines are far more creamy in texture than the other, crisper Cremants in the tasting.

Next was Domaine Moutard-Diligent, a North Burgundy winemaker more famous for their Chablis and Irancy. A winemaker originally founded in 1645 in the Champagne region, and having made Champagne for three generations, Moutard-Diligent bought a vineyard in Burgundy in 2004. In 2015, they decided to use their long held expertise in sparkling to make Cremant de Bourgogne. I tried the Cremant de Bourgogne Les Vignolles, a Brut (dry sparkling wine) made of 50% Pinot Noir (the Champagne grape) and 50% Chardonnay. A barely-there pale colour, tiny bubbles, delicate slow fizzing; it has the look in the glass of a fine sparking wine. A crisp and extremely dry flavour tempered with real elegance makes this bubbles suited for seafood (think a seafood platter in the Summer sunshine), or sushi. 

Cremant de Jura is the new “up-and-coming” Cremant Appellation. The vast majority of the Jura Cremants are white. 100% Chardonnay varieties exist. If a blend is used, it must be made of a minimum of 70% Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Trousseau grapes. The other grapes allowed (to help provide balance and flavour) are Poulsard and Savagnin. The wine must be aged for a minimum of one year. I tried the 100% Chardonnay Marcel Cabelier 2012 Cremant de Jura. This wine was unique for its 20-24 month aging in lees, before the second in-bottle fermentation. Beautifully pale, this wine had delicate, balanced dry flavours with good minerality. 

Another wine producer which caught my attention was “La Compagnie de Burgondie”, a fascinating combination of three specialist makers; Caves Bailly-Lapierre (Cremants), Vignerons de Buxy (Cote Chalonnaise and Premier Cru) and Alliance Vignerons Bourgogne Beaujolais (Beaujolais). Bailly-Lapierre, as Pierre Jerome Beretti explained, is famous for being the producer who created and registered the Appellation of Cremant de Bourgogne in 1975. The Cremant de Bourgogne Brut Reserve is a four grape blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Aligote and Gamay. With an intriguing scent of toast and a touch of dead leaf (sounds terrible, but think of Autumn in the air), it has frothy little bubbles, and good balanced dryness. It is fresh as the amount of added sugar is extremely modest. The finish is short, but pleasant. A bubbly for an aperitif or for enjoying with sophisticated starters, it should sell for around £14 in the UK, making it affordable luxury. 

Pierre let me try the Cremant de Bourgogne Chardonnay, a new product not yet on the UK market. Made from 100% Chardonnay, it as fresh, clean white aromas, with subtlety. Hints of pear are present. Balanced acidity on the tongue with elegant fruit. A long and satisfying finish makes this a wine worth experiencing with all of your senses. This is a wine which would be excellent for Summer celebrations. 

Cremant de Limoux is the sparkling wine made close to Limoux in the Languedoc region, given Appellation status in 1990. 

The Terroir La Baume Cremant de Limoux 2016 is a Gold Medal winning wine, made from a Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Chenin Blanc grapes. The fine bubbles give character, and the crisp flavour, slightly appley aroma and meadow freshness make it highly suitable for fish and seafood. A wine to watch out for, being a worthy award winner. 

Cremant de Loire is made using Chenin Blanc grapes in the Anjou, Saumur and Touraine areas. Nathalie Safran introduced me to the Cremant de Loire of Caves de Grenelle, the only specialist sparkling wine maker in Saumur. 

Established in 1859, this is a wine house which has been family run since its inception. The first wine I tried was the “pretty in pink” rose, Cuvee Si Irresistable; a Mousseux Brut, rather than a Cremant. This wine, made of Grolleux grapes is so different because it has a very short fermentation, hence the reason it cannot be called a Cremant. It is flowery, strongly aromatic, with a little sugar in the aroma (I swear I am able to smell sugar in other people’s tea). The flavour is fresh and light, making is great for sunny days and desserts. But Nathalie warned me not to be unimaginative; the wine, she says, will surprise you with its suitability for food, citing oysters as being particularly well matched. 

The second wine was the Cuvee 3/7.7.4, the Caves de Grenelle, also called “La Magie du Noir” (the “Magic” of black). Devised to be the ultimate expression of what can be done with Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Pinot d’Aunis, it has a pronounced colour, minerality in the flavour and a strange, pure, almost medicinal aroma. It is a “statement” wine of creamy delicacy, and should be  bought now and saved in a cellar for a few months.

Snigdha visited the 2017 Cremant tasting organised by Business France as their guest. This review represents my honest opinions. Snigdha has received no incentive, financial or otherwise for posting this review.

Cremant, the undiscovered bubbly

We Brits love our bubbles. We enjoy celebrating with a chilled glass, whether it's a once in a lifetime wedding or just the relief of getting to the weekend. We love sparkling wine so much, our yearly sales have passed the £1billion mark! Of course, we know Champagne, Cava and Prosecco. But what would Cremant? 

Champagne is a term which can only be used for sparkling wine made in the Champagne region of France - two small pockets of land up in the north east. Special rules have to be followed; grapes must be harvested within the Champagne region, second fermentation in the bottle and there are rules on permissible grape varieties. 

In the same way, Cremant can only be used to describe a sparkling wine which is hand harvested, either in whole bunches or destemmed grapes (a highly labour intensive process, which helps guarantee quality), an initial 9 months fermentation in lees, disgorgement, a further 3 months second fermentation in the bottle before sale. Like the better known AOP wines of France (Appellation d'Origine Protégée), only designated regions can call their creamy and delicate sparkling wines Cremant. These regions (which are 7 in number), include some of the most world famous wine regions of France; Loire, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Bourgogne (Burgundy), Limoux, Jura and Alsace. Household names, but not necessarily for fizzy wine. 

I was recently invited by Business France, the French Trade Commission to their Cremant wine tasting. 15 winemakers from 6 of the Cremant regions were exhibiting. I found some wonderful wines which can be bought in the UK online along with several which I hope will be picked up by supermarkets, online stores and wine merchants very soon.

First up was a Bourgogne Cremant made from 100% Chardonnay grapes in Macon Loche. Made organically and biodynamically by family producers Celine and Laurent Tripoz, the Celine et Laurent Tripoz Brut Nature was a great discovery. Available through Wine Sensations (winesensations.co.UK), retailing for £17.95, this was a very authentic Cremant de Bourgogne; exceptionally light colour, low sulphur (meaning no hangover in the morning!), no added sugar and a good taste of the wine behind the bubbles. I loved the freshness and acidity.

Another super Cremant de Bourgogne was the Veuve Ambal "Cremant de Bourgogne Grande Cuvee Veuve Ambal". Founded by Marie Ambal, the widow or "Veuve" after whom the winery was named, in 1898. This Cremant is blended from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Aligote and Gamay grapes. The colour was a touch more yellow, much more like Champagne. Similarly, the yeasty, sweet brioche smell of Champagne was present here, something I love in sparkling wines. Peach and pear fruity notes, with subtlety in the flavour makes this a layered bubbly perfect for food, particularly fish. The wine is available from Enotria and Coe, and won the Gold medal at 2015's Effervescents du Monde competition. 

A not-to-be-missed Cremant de Bordeaux was the "Black Pearl" Brut Blanc de Noirs by Celene. Unbelievably, this wine is currently unavailable in the UK. Made from 100% Cabernet Franc grapes, it is a sparkling white wine made of black grapes hence the "Blanc de noirs" of the title. Situated in the Entre-Deux-Mers area of Bordeaux, sea breeze and mist is a vitally important influence on the flavour in the grapes. 

The cellars where the wine is fermented were carved into the chalk soil on the right bank of the Garonne way back in the 16th Century. The wine is ultra pale and delicate in colour with a pronounced floral aroma. The gentle bubbles with absolutely no harshness is a testament to the skill of the makers. Smooth front of mouth flavours, sophisticated middle, great finish and super aftertaste. I'm sure UK wine lovers will embrace this wine. Let's see it available!

The best rose I sampled was from the Loire Valley, the Bouvet Cremant de Loire Rose, Brut. Whist being dry, it has no harsh acidity. The smooth finish was a distinguishing feature, as was the gentle flavour. Available from Watermill Wines in the UK, Bouvet Ladubay have been making wine since 1851 and at the end of the 19th Century was known as the number one producer of fizzy wine in the world. A fabulous wine for sunshine Summer Wedding parties!

One of the most individual and unique Cremants I had the pleasure of trying was the Jaillance Cremant de Die Brut Bio. The winner of the Silver Medal at the Challenge Millesme Bio competition 2016 for organic wines, this wine has smoothness and sophistication across every element of the flavour. It is difficult for the initial taste, middle and finish to reconcile. Smoothness on the first sip, through the middle with delicate pear and a silky finish, topped off with a good yeasty aroma. This is a wine which UK consumers will enjoy, it's a worthy prizewinning wine. I hope that someone enterprising with good taste will pick it up, and soon!

Domaine Jean Bourdy in the Jura region produces the UK available Caves Jean Bourdy Cremant du Jura Brut made of 100% Chardonnay grapes. Dudley Craig wines represent them in the UK, and you can buy this biodynamic, smooth, light Cremant with slight yeastiness and fine bubbles for £16.95 a bottle. Pale, delicate with a good finish (no dryness at the back of the throat), it is a real treat. A family run winery for 500 years, Jean Bourdy has an enviable heritage. The same ancient techniques are used to ensure the wine is typical of the Jura Appellation. Jean-Francois and Jean-Phillipe Bourdy are the 15th generation running the Domaine. Now that's a family business you wouldn't mind going into!

I will round off with another treat: Langlois-Chateau's Quadrille de Langlois-Chateau Extra Brut Cremant de Loire. A 2007 vintage, made from 60% Chenin, 15-20% Chardonnay, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Pinot Noir grapes, this is something special. The bubbles are delicate, non aggressive, small and regular. The Chateau has been in production since 1885 and are now owned by none other than Bollinger! They approach production with some exacting standards; only first pressings of the grapes are used and the wines are aged for a minimum of two years. The wine has an effervescent initial taste of beautiful, mellow fizz. Pale elegance abounds with deceptive mildness. Available through Mentzendorff, this was part of an overall batch of 15,000 bottles. Don't let the "extra Brut" label put you off, this is class in a glass.

I have had my eyes opened. Too often I opt for the easy choice of Prosecco when on a budget, Champagne when pushing the boat out, Cava with tapas... It's high time to broaden my horizons. I hope I have encouraged you to try something different next time you choose to crack open a bottle of bubbles!

Snigdha visited the Cremant tasting organised by Business France as their guest. This review represents my honest opinions. Snigdha has received no incentive, financial or otherwise for posting this review.