Cremant, the undiscovered bubbly

We Brits love our bubbles. We enjoy celebrating with a chilled glass, whether it's a once in a lifetime wedding or just the relief of getting to the weekend. We love sparkling wine so much, our yearly sales have passed the £1billion mark! Of course, we know Champagne, Cava and Prosecco. But what would Cremant? 

Champagne is a term which can only be used for sparkling wine made in the Champagne region of France - two small pockets of land up in the north east. Special rules have to be followed; grapes must be harvested within the Champagne region, second fermentation in the bottle and there are rules on permissible grape varieties. 

In the same way, Cremant can only be used to describe a sparkling wine which is hand harvested, either in whole bunches or destemmed grapes (a highly labour intensive process, which helps guarantee quality), an initial 9 months fermentation in lees, disgorgement, a further 3 months second fermentation in the bottle before sale. Like the better known AOP wines of France (Appellation d'Origine Protégée), only designated regions can call their creamy and delicate sparkling wines Cremant. These regions (which are 7 in number), include some of the most world famous wine regions of France; Loire, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Bourgogne (Burgundy), Limoux, Jura and Alsace. Household names, but not necessarily for fizzy wine. 

I was recently invited by Business France, the French Trade Commission to their Cremant wine tasting. 15 winemakers from 6 of the Cremant regions were exhibiting. I found some wonderful wines which can be bought in the UK online along with several which I hope will be picked up by supermarkets, online stores and wine merchants very soon.

First up was a Bourgogne Cremant made from 100% Chardonnay grapes in Macon Loche. Made organically and biodynamically by family producers Celine and Laurent Tripoz, the Celine et Laurent Tripoz Brut Nature was a great discovery. Available through Wine Sensations (winesensations.co.UK), retailing for £17.95, this was a very authentic Cremant de Bourgogne; exceptionally light colour, low sulphur (meaning no hangover in the morning!), no added sugar and a good taste of the wine behind the bubbles. I loved the freshness and acidity.

Another super Cremant de Bourgogne was the Veuve Ambal "Cremant de Bourgogne Grande Cuvee Veuve Ambal". Founded by Marie Ambal, the widow or "Veuve" after whom the winery was named, in 1898. This Cremant is blended from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Aligote and Gamay grapes. The colour was a touch more yellow, much more like Champagne. Similarly, the yeasty, sweet brioche smell of Champagne was present here, something I love in sparkling wines. Peach and pear fruity notes, with subtlety in the flavour makes this a layered bubbly perfect for food, particularly fish. The wine is available from Enotria and Coe, and won the Gold medal at 2015's Effervescents du Monde competition. 

A not-to-be-missed Cremant de Bordeaux was the "Black Pearl" Brut Blanc de Noirs by Celene. Unbelievably, this wine is currently unavailable in the UK. Made from 100% Cabernet Franc grapes, it is a sparkling white wine made of black grapes hence the "Blanc de noirs" of the title. Situated in the Entre-Deux-Mers area of Bordeaux, sea breeze and mist is a vitally important influence on the flavour in the grapes. 

The cellars where the wine is fermented were carved into the chalk soil on the right bank of the Garonne way back in the 16th Century. The wine is ultra pale and delicate in colour with a pronounced floral aroma. The gentle bubbles with absolutely no harshness is a testament to the skill of the makers. Smooth front of mouth flavours, sophisticated middle, great finish and super aftertaste. I'm sure UK wine lovers will embrace this wine. Let's see it available!

The best rose I sampled was from the Loire Valley, the Bouvet Cremant de Loire Rose, Brut. Whist being dry, it has no harsh acidity. The smooth finish was a distinguishing feature, as was the gentle flavour. Available from Watermill Wines in the UK, Bouvet Ladubay have been making wine since 1851 and at the end of the 19th Century was known as the number one producer of fizzy wine in the world. A fabulous wine for sunshine Summer Wedding parties!

One of the most individual and unique Cremants I had the pleasure of trying was the Jaillance Cremant de Die Brut Bio. The winner of the Silver Medal at the Challenge Millesme Bio competition 2016 for organic wines, this wine has smoothness and sophistication across every element of the flavour. It is difficult for the initial taste, middle and finish to reconcile. Smoothness on the first sip, through the middle with delicate pear and a silky finish, topped off with a good yeasty aroma. This is a wine which UK consumers will enjoy, it's a worthy prizewinning wine. I hope that someone enterprising with good taste will pick it up, and soon!

Domaine Jean Bourdy in the Jura region produces the UK available Caves Jean Bourdy Cremant du Jura Brut made of 100% Chardonnay grapes. Dudley Craig wines represent them in the UK, and you can buy this biodynamic, smooth, light Cremant with slight yeastiness and fine bubbles for £16.95 a bottle. Pale, delicate with a good finish (no dryness at the back of the throat), it is a real treat. A family run winery for 500 years, Jean Bourdy has an enviable heritage. The same ancient techniques are used to ensure the wine is typical of the Jura Appellation. Jean-Francois and Jean-Phillipe Bourdy are the 15th generation running the Domaine. Now that's a family business you wouldn't mind going into!

I will round off with another treat: Langlois-Chateau's Quadrille de Langlois-Chateau Extra Brut Cremant de Loire. A 2007 vintage, made from 60% Chenin, 15-20% Chardonnay, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Pinot Noir grapes, this is something special. The bubbles are delicate, non aggressive, small and regular. The Chateau has been in production since 1885 and are now owned by none other than Bollinger! They approach production with some exacting standards; only first pressings of the grapes are used and the wines are aged for a minimum of two years. The wine has an effervescent initial taste of beautiful, mellow fizz. Pale elegance abounds with deceptive mildness. Available through Mentzendorff, this was part of an overall batch of 15,000 bottles. Don't let the "extra Brut" label put you off, this is class in a glass.

I have had my eyes opened. Too often I opt for the easy choice of Prosecco when on a budget, Champagne when pushing the boat out, Cava with tapas... It's high time to broaden my horizons. I hope I have encouraged you to try something different next time you choose to crack open a bottle of bubbles!

Snigdha visited the Cremant tasting organised by Business France as their guest. This review represents my honest opinions. Snigdha has received no incentive, financial or otherwise for posting this review.

South African Wineries; Snigdha’s selection

South African wines are capable of turning the head of the most hardened European wine buff. Producing utterly world class wine, the wines of the Rainbow Nation can give the greatest producers from anywhere in the world a run for their money. Whether you love rich reds, young light reds, mineral whites, fruity whites, method traditionelle sparkling wines, Summery roses, ripe raisiny dessert wines, there is something for your palate to find delight in here.

There are hundreds of great wineries in South Africa, so I do not pretend to have visited them all or have sampled all their wares. I have my liver to think of! But these are my picks of the wine estates I visited recently. There were others which were fun to visit or where I had great food, but do not make the cut on their wines. I hope that these are representative of the best large and small producers, but further research will be necessary. I will be going back for more one day!

If you are visiting South Africa with a view to sampling the viniculture, then Platters wine guide is a great reference for you. Updated annually, it has a helpful writeup on each winery, with reports and ratings of their best wines. A five star review in this “wine bible” is a very big deal in South Africa, and an indicator of a very special wine.

Groot Constantia, Cape Town

The Groot Constantia estate is the oldest in South Africa, dating back to 1685. Its wines have been world famous for centuries and legend has it that Napoleon’s final request was a glass of Constantia wine. Now run as a wine farm producing excellent wine but with emphasis on preserving the heritage of this estate, you get a sense of history without being trapped in a museum.

The beautiful estate is a pleasure to walk around and you can take in views of Table Mountain as well as the vines. 

Wine tastings and meals are available, but why not try something a little different? A bespoke chocolate and wine tasting is available, where the white, milk and dark chocolates and their flavourings have been developed to match with Groot Constantia’s white and red wines.

www.grootconstantia.co.za

Clos Malverne, near Stellenbosch

Making wine since 1986, this winery was one of the first to make a “classic Cape blend” wine, making use of the grape varieties which are more characteristically South African.

The grapes have their juices extracted by an antiquated and labour intensive process; the basket press. This method, done completely by hand, does not denigrate the grape skins, vital for adding colour and tannins to their red wines. 

The Auret red wine is spectacular. As is the food in the superb restaurant with vineyard views. Very popular with locals, you need to book. If you want a table on the veranda looking directly over the vines and mountains, you should book early.

www.closmalverne.co.za

Warwick Estate, between Stellenbosch and Paarl

This is a family run winery, famous for its prizewinning “The First Lady” unoaked Chardonnay. Norma Ratcliffe is the “First Lady” of Warwick; the first woman to become a member of the Cape Winemakers Guild and the first to be its Chairperson.

The First Lady Unoaked Chardonnay is a revelation to those of us who convinced ourselves we didn’t like New World Chardonnay in the 1990s due to the industrial strength oaking of these wines.

Research, naturally!

I had a super picnic here at Warwick, carefully selected, locally sourced light bites, cold cuts and salad (grown in the gardens) in the sunshine looking over the lovely scenery, washed down by the wonderful “Professor Black” Sauvignon Blanc.

www.warwickwine.com

Aaldering, Devon Valley, Stellenbosch

Fons and Marianne Aaldering set up this wine farm in 2004 with big ambitions to be one of the best in South Africa. This very small, almost “boutique” winery is punching well above its weight, having won awards in both Europe and China. 

The red wines are the star here, with their Pinotage and their Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend being some of the best I tasted. 

The peace and quiet of Devon Valley are another draw for this cute little wine estate.

You can stay in one of three traditional Cape Dutch lodge houses if you plan on spending time in the vicinity of Stellenbosch.

www.aaldering.co.za

Bramon, Plettenberg Bay (near Knysna), The Garden Route

Most of the wineries of South Africa are in the Stellenbosch/Paarl area. However, this winery is located on the “Garden Route”; the expanse of woods and greenery you reach as you leave the Karoo, sandwiched between the hills and coast. 

“Bramon” is the conflation of the names of brother and sister owners Bram and Manon Thorpe, the winery being a real family concern. 

The proximity to the sea adds coolness and sea breeze to the superb “MCC” wines. MCC? Methodé Cap Classique, the same method used to make Champagne (being a protected region, no-one outside of the Champagne region can use the word “Champagne”, which is why you may see “method traditionelle” used elsewhere in the world).

Bramon run an eatery with great house-made tapas, inspired by local ingredients. The Bobotie cigars are a novel spin on a quintessentially South African dish.

www.bramonwines.co.za

Snigdha has not received any incentive, financial or otherwise for posting these recommendations. 

Waitrose Wines - Christmas picks

It is the first of December, the first day of the Christmas season. It's the first day you can put your Christmas decorations up, open the first door of your advent calendar and generally start feeling festive. 

Some of you might be beginning to plan your Christmas dinner, and so I thought that it might help you to identify some fab wines for the big day.

I recently attended a tasting at Waitrose's Cookery School in London for Waitrose's seasonal drink selections. There was a bewildering array of booze available. I knew I would need some help. 

Thankfully, Cat Lomax, an experienced, knowledgeable wine buyer for Waitrose specialising in Bordeaux, Rhone, Alsace, Austrian and Sparkling wines noticed my confused expression and decided to give me a guided tour of the selections.   

I was very lucky that Cat took me under her wing to help choose these wines, they are the pick of the wines I tried with her help.

Sparkling wines

Most of you are likely to kick off the shenanigans of Christmas day with some bubbly and a toast to a fabulous day of celebrations. Fortunately, there are ample choices for varied budgets and varied party sizes.

San Leo Prosecco Brut, NV, Italy, 1.5l £20.99

Prosecco is a word fast becoming synonymous for party. You'd also be hard pressed to beat the "wow factor" of a Magnum, a full double size bottle! But is the wine inside any good? Cat, my guide to the new range is so enthusiastic about this Prosecco, she had it at her recent engagement party. That's quite a big endorsement. I tasted it and thought it was wonderful frothy fun; highly drinkable, round, soft, yet fresh. Cat highlighted the fresh tones of pear as another standout feature of this Prosecco. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.


Nyetimber Classic Cuvee 2010, West Sussex, England £31.99

Cherie Spriggs grows her grapes on the Lee of the South Downs, in the shelter from the coastal winds. The chalk seam in West Sussex falls deeper underground, leading all the way to the Champagne region across the Channel, a clue as to why England sparkling wines made by le method traditionelle are giving bona fide Champagne a run for its money. This wine won a prestigious IWC Silver Medal, proving its quality and refinement. Good sparkling wine, particularly Champagne, needs acidity in the grape alongside ripeness, which our climate is ideal for achieving. Made of 51% Pinot Noir, 36% Chardonnay and 13% Pinot Meunier, the Nyetimber is crisp and clean with toasty brioche flavours.

Pol Roger Vintage 2004 Champagne £56.99

Still a family run concern, Pol Roger is different from many of the other Champagne houses. It is a far smaller producer than its better known rivals.  This Champagne consists of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Cat advised me that 2004 was a good year, which is why Pol Roger considered it worthy of a single vintage. I would describe it as an elegant and fine Champagne with lemony citrus flavours, well above the level of ordinary supermarket Champagne. This wine is for a special celebration. Cat noted freshly made bread dough, yeastiness and praised its refined, precise character and crisp, refreshing flavours. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.

White wines

The early courses of your Christmas dinner are likely to be seafood or fish. Dressed crab, smoked salmon, lobster, pan fried fish. You will want white wines which go well with food, but are not too overpowering. Cat guided me towards white wines which, whilst having different characteristics, are great for food pairing.

Domaine Saint Amant La Tabardonne 2012, Cotes du Rhone Villages, France £14.99

Made from 90% Viognier and the relatively unknown Rousanne grape (making up the other 10%), this wine is made in the Phone region, not known for their white wines. Made by a husband and wife team, grown on small chalky clay terraces, this wine deserves notice. Hand picked, the grapes are crushed by gravity and fermented on oak barrels. I thought after 1990s New World hyper-oaking that I didn't like oaked wines. I avoided them wherever I could. I have learned that you can't hold rigid opinions with wine; techniques change, seasons, weather and geography xast their spell. This wine had richness and body with a long plead finish.

Le Crocher d'Amelie 2014 Sancerre, Loire, France £17.49

100% Sauvignon Blanc as all Sancerre should be, this is a wonderful wine for food.  Sancerre has long been a go-to wine for me when food matching owing to its brilliant balance of flavour, sweetness and acidity. Jean-Max Roger and his sons Thibault and Etienne grow the grapes in the village of Bue and hamlet of Amigny on clay-limestone soil of Jurassic origins. But don't worry, this wine is no dinosaur; it is elegant with herbaceous garden aromas. The flavour and finish are refined and restrained. A fabulous wine for all palates. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.

Red wines

Some people eschew the traditional turkey dinner for something more substantial, demanding the depth and fruit of red wines. There were plenty of great red wines available in the Winter selection, these being my favourites. 
 
Domaine Lucien Muzard 2013 Santenay, Premier Cru Maladiere, Burgundy, France £19.99

Burgundy, France is the home of the iconic beef stew Boeuf Bourguignon, traditionally made with Burgundy wine. The region is not as reknowned as other French wine regions, and can be intimidating for the wine novice because there are so many small appellations. This wine, made by brothers and small producers Herve and Claude Muzard is 100% Pinot Noir and is aged for 12 months in oak barrels. This wine is for the Pinot Noir sceptic (as I indeed am). I found it aromatic and earthy, with red currant fruit. It is not too high in tannins and has a slightly gamey flavour. I enjoyed this wine as it was balanced with a fresh finish. I sometimes find Pinot Noir harsh, so this was a real find. It is suitable for vegetarians and vegans.

Villa Antinori 2012, Tuscany, Italy £14.99

Made from a blend of Sangiovese grapes with small quantities of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, this wine is made by a respected producer in the trade. The post-picking treatment of the grapes was devised to give good colour and aroma. It smells fruity, full of black cherry and red fruits. The 12 months spent in oak barrels gives a spiciness. The finish was fresh and balanced. Cat recommends this as an ideal wine for complementing fatty, rich dishes, owing to its soft, ripe tannins and fresh acidity.

Sweet/dessert wines

It may well be that you make it through the grazing and snacking of Christmas morning (with ritual present opening!), the rigours of a full Crimbo dinner and have some space left for pudding. If so, you might be looking for a dessert wine to finish a memorable day with. Cat has a doozy for you!


Crociani 2010 Vin Santo di Montepulciano Tuscany Italy 37.5cl £19.49

With its attractive Medieval label, this Vin Santo would round off Christmas dinner a treat! Made of 90% Malvasia and 10% Pulcinculo (Grechetto Bianco) grapes by Susanna Crociani. Deep coloured, this wine has flavours of caramel and honey. Cat encouraged me to taste the subtler toasted almonds and slightly burnt marmalade tones she found. If you're generous, you might leave a wee glass for Father Christmas to have with his Christmas Eve mince pie. Otherwise, it would be great with Christmas cake, or with the cheese board after dinner. It goes particularly well with hard cheese served with dried fruits and apricots. Comte cheese is a fabulous partner!

If you are interested in any of these wines, you can check them out at the Waitrose Cellar website: http://www.waitrosecellar.com/
You can order wines to collect from your local branch if you do not want to order for a full delivery. 

I would like to convey my heartfelt thanks to Cat for her time and trouble in helping me find these wines. These are only a small selection of the wines she picked for me. Her knowledge and expertise is truly impressive and inspirational.

I would also thank Waitrose Wines for inviting me to their tasting event. I attended as their guest. 

Snigdha has not received any incentive, financial or otherwise for writing this blog post.

Waitrose Cellar: for wine buffs and newbies alike

Waitrose have launched their revamped wine ordering service "Waitrose Cellar" and they invited me to meet their wine experts and sample their favourite wines at the London Canal Museum. Being something of a wine adventurer, I was keen to discover what was going on.

Waitrose have spent a year redesigning not just the website, but the whole basis of the service. Wine is a daunting and huge subject. Everyone comes to it at a different level with very varying interests. Whether it is food and wine matching, wanting to buy a gift for a wine buff, discovering fine wines or just wanting something good but inexpensive, different customers have different needs and approaches. The hope is that they will all receive the help and service they need. Revamped and some brand new tasting videos, articles, testing guides and "how-to" guides are all part of the assistance provided.

I met with two of Waitrose's "Learned friends", their wine experts. Xenia, Waitrose Cellar's wine buyer enthused about how joyful her job is - she just seems to live and breathe wine. Xenia told us of her recent trip to Bordeaux where she literally tried hundreds of wines, which made for an enjoyable but "long and exhausting journey".

My guide to the wines on this tasting was Stephane. He is one of the resident Wine Experts at Waitrose Cellar, meaning that prospective customers ringing up or emailing will receive bespoke advice from either Stephane or one of his colleagues. Stephane was a mine of fascinating information and was happy to advise us on what to serve for special occasions and with pairings with food.

As our barge at the London Canal Museum chugged into life and along the canal, the wine voyage began!

Waitrose Blanc de Noirs Brut NV £21.99

A genuine Pinot Noir Champagne from the Champagne region of France, and winner of the IWSC Gold medal. This is a great value Champers given its sheer quality. If you compare it to the other supermarket Champagnes available at the £20-25 mark, this exceeds them considerable, including some of the "names". This was my favourite of all the wines we tried by a country mile!

Stephane told us about how the French love their Champagne: "If you have a bottle of Champagne in the fridge, you find any occasion as an excuse to drink it. Hey! We just finished work! Let's open the Champagne!" It made me want to pack it all in and move immediately!

Waitrose Prosecco £8.99

Prosecco has really captured the imagination of UK buyers and appears to be the current favourite fizzy wine of choice. This own-label Prosecco is an award winner, having gained an IWSC silver medal. I found this to be a very fine example of a Prosecco and at a competitive price for the quality. The bubbles were light, it was smooth and fruity, and a perfect wine for the coming Summer days. Perhaps not suitable for citrus fruits, this wine would be a good aperitif or wine to have with peach or apple based desserts.

Cave de Lugny Sparking Burgundy Blanc de Blancs NV

This fizzy wine, available by the bottle or in the Waitrose Cellar "Foodie Case" (wines selected for their suitability for food matching) is half the price of champagne at £13.99 a bottle. Made with 100% Chardonnay grapes, I found this to be a highly enjoyable bubbly which would go down extremely well at a dinner party as an aperitif. Burgundy sparkling wines can be erratic, Stephane advised us, because if growers cannot get their grapes bought by a prestigious producer, they tend to sell the grapes for use in sparking wines. But there was no need to worry with this wine, it was dry but floral and suited for seafood, particularly lobster.

Vasse Felix Semillion/Sauvignon Blanc £13.99

This wine is a Western Australian white made from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes. If you want to investigate this wine, it is in the Waitrose Cellar "Foodie Case". I particularly enjoyed this wine, and think it would be brilliant match for light seafood and white fish. Just seared scallops, perhaps marinaded in light soy sauce, red chili and sesame oil would be lovely.

Le Grande Ballon Sauvignon Blanc £8.49

A Loire Valley French white wine which delivers much of the smooth gooseberry fruit and balance of its far more expensive cousin, the Sancerre. The producer, Thierry Delaunay uses contemporary techniques to create a wine which competes superbly against one of the most treasured and traditional appellations.

Dr Loosen 2012 Weinger Wurzgarten Reisling Kabinett £15.99

Stephane described this wine as "my guilty pleasure with Thai food". But why guilty? Sure, it is sweeter than is currently fashionable, but to hell with fashion! This wine is to the medium sweet side, and there is no way of describing it as off-dry. However, it is perfect with any spicy, chilli driven food. It particularly works with lemongrass, it drops the heat of chillis because the acidity cuts through the heat. It would would with an Indian curry, with its layered and often complex spicing (I would particularly suggest a south Indian style fish curry with chilli and grated coconut), but would equally go with Malaysian or Thai food. 

Vigneti Massa Sentieri Barbera £11.99

This is usually a very heavy red; gutsy and full. One which gives great enjoyment in the drinking but may give a headache the next day if taken in excess. This particular Barbera was lighter, it was plump and juicy in character. It would suit meat, and lamb in particular. I don't care about food snobbery, good food is good food. Full stop. So I would suggest this as a wonderful wine to go with kebabs. I'm personally thinking of shish or kofte, but if you prefer (lamb) doner, then go for it!

Waitrose Chianti Classico Barone Ricasoli £11.99

This wine has been made in partnership with Barone Ricasole, the oldest winery in Italy, and has won a bronze medal at the Decanter wine awards. Made with Sangiovese grapes and quite tannic, this would be good wine to cook with because of its balanced flavour and suitable level of alcohol. Stephane suggested a slow cooked brisket, as you would need some fat in the meat to balance the tannins. Another option would be Quattro Formaggio Pizza as it would complement the fatty cheeses, tomato topping and sunshine. 

Stonier Pinot Noir £14.99

Another wine in the "Foodie case", this light red wine from Mornington Peninsula, Australia has a smoothness you can expect from the better Pinot Noir wines. If you are sceptical about Pinot Noir because you've had a bad experience with some of the cheaper and harsher offerings made from this grape, please put your prejudices aside.

Catera Malbec £12.99

This was a very gusty and bold red wine from Mendoza in Argentina. I enjoyed the intense, brambly fruit. It had good body and deep tannins. This wine would be one I would have with Ragu Bolognese or steak. 

Chateau Segonzac Oak Aged £10.49

An award winning oak aged "Cru Bourgeois" wine made from a blend of grapes from Premieres Cotes de Blaye in Bordeaux. Waitrose's experts help select the blend for this wine, so they work hard to get the balance right each year. Perfect for Sunday lunch with roast beef or lamb.

Waitrose Reserve Shiraz, St Hallet £11.99

This Barossa Shiraz red is made in partnership with St Hallet winery in Australia and is exclusive to Waitrose. I found it to be very full flavoured. It has a fairly high alcohol content and so is not suitable for cooking with. As we come into the Summer, I would suggest this a Barbeque wine, suitable for the grillmaster or guest alike to have while the meat is sizzling and once the BBQ goodies are served up!

If you would like to check out the new Waitrose Cellar website, you will find it here: http://www.waitrosecellar.com/

Thank you to Waitrose Cellar for inviting me to the wine tasting, which I attended as their guest.