Showing posts with label cooking tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cooking tips. Show all posts

Monday, 12 January 2015

Come facette mammeta - Guest post by Linda Poulnott



When I meet up with friends and family members and we have one of those long, wide ranging chats, the subject of computers, online life and social networking inevitably comes up. Everyone seems to know what an addict I am to the various social networks I am a member of…. And the same question seems to come up frequently: “but I heard that there are loads of trolls. Don’t you get trolled a lot?” 


I can honestly say that save for a couple of heated exchanges on twitter which involved more bad language than abuse, I have never been trolled. In fact, I have met so many wonderful like-minded people thanks to the online world. 


One such person is Linda Poulnott, my guest post author for this blog post. I met Linda online initially through our admiration for Johnny Marr’s guitar playing and songwriting. We eventually realised we had so much more in common; we are both learning to play guitar (and love guitars in general), are crazy about music and enjoy cooking, eating out, food and wine. The magic of the internet means that despite the fact she lives in southern Italy and I am in London, we were able to find each other and share our passions. Pretty amazing, right?


Well, it certainly doesn’t stop there. Linda’s time spent in the Bay of Naples makes her something of an expert on southern Italian cooking. Can you imagine my delight and complete surprise when she offered to write for Snig’s Kitchen on that very subject? 


I just made up to be able to host this post from Linda, which is the first of a series of three. I am sure you will enjoy it, and like me, can’t wait to see the her next two posts. 

Linda's photos are of her local food market. If you're anything like me, you will be most envious of the fantastic produce available. I'm drooling at my keyboard!


Anyway, over to you, Linda!

Come facette mammeta (like mother makes)

How to cook like a Neapolitan Mamma!                                         


First of all, I’d like to thank Snigdha for giving me the chance to write a guest spot on her blog. We met through our shared enthusiasm for guitars, Johnny Marr, good music and good food! Although I’m originally from Scotland I’ve been living in the Bay of Naples for over 20 years. I’ve always been passionate about food, but when I originally came here I knew very little about traditional Italian cooking. My knowledge was based purely on the often complicated, adaptations of Italian dishes  by British TV chefs, British ”Italian” restaurants and a few holidays spent in Cattolica and Rimini during the 80’s.


Italians have always been known for their love of good food. I've worked and travelled in many parts of the country and have to admit that the people here in the Campania region are the most food obsessed people I've ever met! In my opinion, they produce the best dishes in the nation. This has always been a poor area of Italy, so for centuries people had to become experts in, what is called, "cucina povera"(poor cuisine).



As the years passed and I became integrated into the local community, I learned a lot and was surprised to discover that real Italian homecooking is very simple and tasty. I had to learn to cook well when I started living with my Italian partner, Antonio, 10 years ago. They say the way to a man's heart is through his stomach, and nowhere is this truer than here in the Bay of Naples. 

One of my happiest moments was when Antonio told me that I was better at cooking than his Mamma!! I didn't even believe that that was possible.


TOP TIPS TO COOK LIKE MAMMA


1. Always use fresh, local ingredients that are in season. The one exception is using canned beans or chickpeas. There really is no difference in flavour and it saves loads of time during preparation.


2. When cooking pasta always wait until the water is boiling before adding salt and DO NOT add oil. I've never once seen an Italian doing this. Give it a stir then leave it. Don't put a lid on the pot either. The best way to check if it's ready is by trying it rather than relying on packet instruction timings.


3. Less is more. I was pretty shocked to discover than in Neapolitan cooking very few herbs and flavourings are added. They really like the true flavours of the food to shine through without overpowering them. I've never seen locals mixing lots of herbs in the same recipe or "drowning" their food with lemon juice or balsamic vinegar. The most popular pizza in Naples is Margherita (cheese and tomato). You very rarely see a Neapolitan with lots of pizza toppings, and NEVER with ham and pineapple!


4. Don't keep your tomatoes in the fridge. They tend to lose their flavour. 


5. Mozzarella is also usually kept out of the fridge in a bowl of cold water which is changed often.


6. Keep the extra virgin oil for salads and dressings. Using it to cook food will usually overpower the dish and can make it quite bitter and peppery. Normal blended olive oils are better.


7. When making risotto always keep your stock pot simmering and add a ladle at a time to the rice and stir often.


8. If you want a truly genuine Neapolitan experience when eating you must learn to do the "Scarpetta" (little shoe). This is what we call the essential, mopping up of leftover sauce on the plate with a big chunk of bread.



Many thanks to Linda for her lovely post, written for no incentive whatsoever than the enjoyment of readers. I look forward to hosting her future guest posts!

Wednesday, 15 May 2013

Some thoughts and tips about Thai Curries... A Quick Post

I am not an expert on Thai food. I wish I were! I'm pretty great at eating it - it's my favourite food. But I'm an enthusiastic amateur when it comes to cooking it. I've watched lots of the dishes being cooked and read up on them, so I think I know a little bit.
 
I was recently asked by a friend for some alternatives to the regular Red or Green curry. So here are my thoughts.

Massaman Curry is dark, spicy and hot. So it generally suits beef, lamb or brown chicken meat (thighs/legs with bone in). Often it has potato added to give the dish more substance. I like to do this as the spicy sauce goes really well with the more plain taste of the potato.


Orange Curry has turmeric, lemongrass and spices, so is not quite so strong. You could make a curry with chicken, fish or prawns. This is not the same as Sour Orange Curry (Kaeng Som) which is a thin soupy stew which is made from seafood or fish.

Red or Green curry many of us have tried to make. Trying to make your own paste will give you something special - but it is time consuming and getting all the ingredients can be difficult. Even if I go to a Thai or Chinese Supermarket, I am not guaranteed to get hold of Thai Sweet Basil. You cannot substitute with Italian Basil, it is not the same. And I will warn you now that chopping galangal, even into chunks to put into your food processor, isn't easy - it's like wood!

If you make your own paste, I would only suggest you make enough for one meal. If you make double, you have to pour oil over the top and put in a sealed non-metallic container in the fridge and use within 5 days. It will lose vibrancy of colour over time.

You can get really quite good ready made pastes from the Chinese or Thai supermarket. Mae Ploy is a good brand. There are quite a few restaurants that actually use this paste, so I don't think there is any shame in using it.
 

One word of advice: PLEASE don't bother with the Sharwoods/Blue Dragon/Amoy/Loyd Grossman jars of Thai curry sauce - very bland and unsatisfying.

You can easily make a lovely vegetable Thai curry, and even if you are making a fish/meat curry, I would suggest you add some vegetables. The tiny little Thai (Pea) Aubergines are typical, but can be hard to find. You could substitute the small cream Aubergines (eggplants), chopped into chunks. Chunks of chopped capsicum pepper may not be traditional, but work well. Squash would be another tasty and healthy choice, as would French beans (though they will take quite a long time to soften). Even baby corn, cut in half on the diagonal would give some pleasant colour and an alternative texture. Go with what you like! 

You need some Coconut milk/cream. For the method I will set out below, which is the most traditionally Thai method, but not the easiest, you will need tinned coconut milk. Thai makes are the best - Aroy D is available even in some branches of Tesco. PLEASE DO NOT SHAKE IT!


You scoop the thickest cream off the top and heat until it splits. Then fry the paste for 1 min before adding the rest of the coconut milk. Heat through, then add your other ingredients. If you are using meat, it goes in first, with the veggies following suit. Beef may need 25-30mins cooking to become tender. Chicken will need at least 15 mins to be safe. If using prawns, fish or seafood, they will need a similar cooking time to the veggies (10mins), so could all go in together.

Once the ingredients are cooked (depends on whether using meat, fish or just vegetables), you can stir in a final flourish of fish sauce and lime juice.

If your coconut milk doesn't have thick cream on the top or you just don't fancy heating it until it splits, use a neutral oil to fry the paste - groundnut or vegetable will be great. Fry the paste for 1 min before adding the rest of the coconut milk. Heat through, then add your other ingredients.

Another way is to buy powdered (dried) coconut milk/cream. Reconstitute with water, then use oil to fry the paste.

Thai curry just HAS to be served with Thai Jasmine rice. It is worth searching out because of its wonderful aroma. Steamed for 10-12 minutes, it is a the perfect accompaniment!

Do any of you have any other tips for Thai curries?

Saturday, 19 January 2013

Slow cooker 101 (AKA Crock Pot 101 or How to use a slow cooker)


I recently got involved in a discussion on twitter about slow cookers. I have a slow cooker I was bought as a present about 15-16 years ago which is still going strong and gets used when the weather gets chilly and Him Indoors and I want something hot and comforting that doesn't require slaving over a hot stove. Slow cookers are great because you can put them on in the morning, forget about them and come home to lovely cooking aromas and a hot meal. They are also brilliant for making cheap meats into very tasty meals. And because they cook on a low heat, they use very little power. Most models are also inexpensive. Hence they are economic to buy, run and fill, and a time saver. What's not to like?
Old Faithful: still going after all these years!
Anyway, here are my thoughts for the uninitiated about slow cookers. I hope you'll share yours by leaving your comments below! (My heartfelt thanks go to the lovely family members who provided the pictures for this post below!)

Choosing a slow cooker

Please note that I do not recommend any particular make or model of slow cooker. You will need to do your own research and choose according to the features and specifications. I have thought carefully about the factors involved, however, and set out the things to look out for here.

You need a slow cooker which is easy to clean. The process of slow cooking will mean that where the top of the stew starts to dry on, the fluids will cook onto the pan. The last thing you'll want to do is spend ages scrubbing! So you want one with an easily removable cooking pan, which will fit into your sink for soaking. If you have a dishwasher, you will want to check that the pan will fit into your dishwasher rack after soaking. And of course, that it is dishwasher safe!
High end ceramic pan model by Crock Pot

In the USA the most popular make of slow cooker is 'Crock Pot'.  When I say popular, I mean it! So much so, they call all slow cookers 'Crock Pots' (hence the title of this post). These cookers have a ceramic pot in which the cooking happens. The advantage of this design is that the ceramic retains the heat very well, and successfully distributes the temperature to the whole volume of the pan. The result is good even cooking, and the assurance that if you are cooking meat and it has reached a safe temperature for eating, you will not get ill. 
Small size Crock Pot brand machine for dips and starters

There are a number of disadvantages. A stoneware pot can be heavy, and that ceramics are fragile. In the larger models, the size and weight of the pot when filled make it unwieldy. I would not like to have to lug one across my kitchen. If you drop the pot, it will break. You will have to sear meat in another pan since you cannot put the ceramic directly on the hob, and if you subject the pot a rapid change of temperature, it may crack. Crock Pot users may want to visit the official website and check out their wide choice of recipes: http://www.crock-pot.com/recipes.aspx
Large US style ceramic pan model

There are a variety of alternatives; enamelled pots, aluminium, steel and non-stick pots. 

UK model with non-stick aluminium pan
The advantage of many of these alternatives is that they are light and are not as susceptible to breakage. The metal ones are durable and you don't have to worry about cracking. Most of these are designed so that you can sear your meat in the slow cooker pot, which saves on time and washing up. 

Pans with non-stick coating will have to be treated with care. You will have to use a wooden or plastic spoon to stir, and you should never use a knife anywhere near the pan surface. Cleaning will involve care and you should only use scourers which are non-stick friendly and non-abrasive. If you scratch the non-stick, as you continue to use the pan, the coating will start peeling a little at the edges and flake in to your food. I have been told that non-stick coating is not good for you and even that it is toxic. So, look after your non-stick pan, and if it's too much to bother with, pick another design of cooker. 

The pan design and size is not your only consideration. I would advise that you find a model with multiple heat settings. You need 3 if possible: high heat, low heat and keep warm settings. This will make your cooker much more versatile for achieving the maximum number of dishes. And the keep warm setting is very useful for when your dish is cooked, but you don't want it to cool down. After all, it is the repeated cooling and heating of dishes which can lead to food poisoning. If you can keep it at a safe temperature but arrest the cooking process, the keep warm setting is very useful and beneficial for family dining.

Lid manufacture and design is important. The lid should fit well, without gaps or heat will escape, lengthening cooking times and diminishing the safety of the food (see below for my advice on food safety). Plastic lid versions are available, but I question how durable and long lasting a plastic lid will be from prolonged use. Also, despite many plastics being labelled as dishwasher safe, I find that after numerous washes, the shape deforms a little, cloudiness sets in, and shrinkage is possible. I cannot tell you how many plastic 'tupperware' storage boxes I have thrown out for these reasons (I have now given up and wash them all by hand). I would say that glass is preferable for durability and so you can see the contents when cooking. In terms of the design, you will find that vapour comes off the food and condenses on the lid. A domed lid which fits within the upper 'lip' or edge of the pot is a good design, because that condensation will eventually trickle back into the pan, rather than risk falling between the pan and the outer skin, risking water going on the heating element. 

Don't be influenced by the price. It is not necessarily a case of the more you pay the better a machine you will get. It is the features, settings and likely use you will put it to that you need to consider. The bigger the cooker, the longer it will take to heat up, longer cooking time and the more energy used. I would suggest that you think about how many people you will be cooking for. A slow cooker with capacity of 3-3.5 litres will easily make enough stew/casserole for 4-6. 

US slow cookers are sold depending on the capacity in US Quarts. The models are typically 4.5Q 6Q, 6.5Q, 7Q (6 quarts = 5.67l).

Some of the slow cooker models available are rather large. You need sufficient tabletop/countertop space for the slow cooker, allowing a decent amount of space from the wall and other appliances for the sake of safety. Most slow cookers are very safe, robust and reliable. However, if you are leaving the slow cooker on when you are out of the house, you need to make sure there is a space all around the cooker for air to circulate. You do not want the cooker overheating and for there to be nowhere for the heat to escape. That's how fires start.


Preparing your dish for slow cooking

Don't underestimate how long the preparation will take you if you are doing it before going to work. Chopping and peeling onions, garlic and carrots will take more time than you think. And if you are planning on searing meat before putting it into the slow cooker pan, you may want to budget between 20-30 minutes for your overall preparation. But do remember that the preparations of the morning will more than pay themselves off whilst you are off doing whatever it is all day. When it is dinner time, everything will be ready to plate up.

There appear to be a number of websites which are advising that you can prepare all your ingredients the night before, put them in the pan of the cooker, put them in the fridge overnight so that all you have to do the next morning is put the pan on the heater. I am sceptical about this advice. If you have a ceramic pan, then going from cold fridge to the hot element base of the cooker might cause chipping or worse still, cracking of your pan. Then it's game over for your slow cooker. 

Another concern I have is putting uncooked meat mixed with the other stew ingredients overnight. The whole point of a slow cooker is that it cooks gently on a low heat. That heat may not be enough to kill the bacteria which may be in the meat. Unless the meat is brought up to a temperature of at least 60°C (140°F), there is a risk of food poisoning. Ideally to ensure that bacteria, toxins and spores are all killed off, you need a temperature of 70 °C (158 °F). Some food safety agencies are recommending 72-74°C (160-165°F), and there are different guidelines for different meats. (See http://www.foodsafety.gov/keep/charts/mintemp.html and http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2011/may/25/pork-cooking-temperatures-lowered). 
    
I would say that if you are pressed for time, and need to use the overnight method, prepare all of your ingredients. Store them in a different container from the cooking pot, and put the meat in a separate container. Then in the morning, put everything into your cooking pot and switch on.

For the same food safety reasons I have set out above, I would advise that you do not put any frozen non-vegetable ingredients in your slow cooker, and if you are tempted to use any frozen vegetables, that you check the whole dish reaches a high enough temperature (adding anything frozen will bring the pan temperature down considerably). 

If you are intending to use beans in your dish, then dried beans will need to be soaked overnight. Some beans contain toxins (like red kidney beans). Even with overnight soaking, if the heat is relatively low on your slow cooker, you may find that even after 6-8 hours cooking, the beans are still hard. By all means, have a test-run if you wish to see if your cooker has enough heat that this is not a concern. Alternatively, boil the beans for 10-15 minutes after overnight soaking.

If you can't be bothered will all the faff of overnight soaking and par-boiling of beans, you can use tinned. However, the cooking time for them must be reduced, unless you like bean mush. You will only need to cook them for 2-3 hours, so you may need to factor in when you will be able to add them, or make dishes without beans in them at all. 

Meat should have as much fat trimmed off it as possible, as the fluid in the pan will keep the meat moist. You will not need the fat to prevent the meat drying out, and any fat will just remain in the dish, which obviously is not healthy. This is one of the reason that the cheaper, leaner cuts of meat are recommended for slow cooking. 

Slow cooker recipes

There are lots of slow cooker recipes, available online or in books. You may need to take care with some recipes. In the USA recipes will follow US conventions on temperature and measurements, and will often assume you are using a Crock Pot - so will use 'high' and 'low' based on the temperature setting that particular brand uses. Whether these setting are the same for all brands, I am not sure. UK recipes tend to use weight measurements, cups and may refer to temperatures in Celsius (°C). You may want to check out cookbooks before you buy if you find it hard to translate from one set of conventions to another.

For the maximum flavour, meat should be seared before putting into the slow cooker. This is not essential, but will make a lot of difference. Experiment with both to see which you prefer and whether the effort is worth the trouble. 

As a result, you may want to take a favourite existing stew or casserole recipe and tweak it for the slow cooker. This increases considerably the variety of what you can make. When adapting a regular casserole recipe, there are certain considerations you will need to bear in mind. You need to think about whether any of the ingredients are going to turn into mush if cooked gently for 6-8 hours. Mushrooms are a prime example. These will need to be added in much later in the cooking process. Other 'softer' vegetables like courgettes may also disintegrate in the pan. 

Another consideration if adapting oven baked casserole or stew recipes is that a lot of moisture evaporates (even with the lid on) in the oven, thickening the sauce. The low temperature of the slow cooker means that you won't lose anywhere near as much liquid. This means you need to reduce the amount of stock/water you use. You may need to add more flavourings (herbs and spices) to avoid a blander taste than you would have got through oven cooking. Finally, if you find the dish is too watery, you can use a mixture of cornflour and water to thicken the 'gravy'.

Watch out when using root vegetables like carrot, swede, turnip etc. These are hard, dense veggies. They may not cook to the point of softness even after 6-8 hours. It may be an idea to soften at the frying/browning stage.

See above for my advice on adding beans and pulses to your dishes.

Try not to take the lid off to admire your handiwork or to stir. You'll lose some of the heat in the pan and this will increase the cooking time. Or increase the chances that your food will not be brought up to the minimum safe temperatures referred to above.

In my research for this post, I was amazed at the sheer versatility of a slow cooker. I had always used mine for stews and casseroles, real Winter warmers. I have now discovered that my trusty old cooker can be used for jam, chutneys, cake, steamed puddings, custard, curry, chilli, soup and stocks!

Kavita Favelle of Kavey Eats has advised me:
"I use slow cooker to make stock, after each roast chicken dinner. I pull all leftover meat off the carcass, then bones, ligaments, soggy skin all go into pot with water and left on overnight. Drain in morning and fridge or freeze, for soup or risotto. Often make risotto with stock and chopped leftover meat. Also, sometimes poach whole chickens in slow cooker."
Kavita also uses her slow cooker to poach a whole chicken. Recipe here:

This is my recipe for a tomato based slow cooker stew using butter beans and chorizo:

Here is my slow cooker version of the Spanish classic lunchtime dish Cocido: 

I use mine for mulled wine for Winter parties, which means the wine does not boil or evaporate and I am free to mingle with my guests instead of standing over a saucepan:

More tips for using a slow cooker:

Pot roast chicken:

A complete one-pot meal of Turkish lamb pilau (almost like a biryani):

Seasonal slow cookery - how to make cranberry sauce:

Pudding recipe for treacle sponge adapted for the slow cooker: 

A large collection of slow cooker and crock pot recipes:

What are your slow cooker hints, tips and tricks?