Showing posts with label review. Show all posts
Showing posts with label review. Show all posts

Monday, 1 July 2013

The Gun, London Docklands - a wonderful pub for great food

Sometimes I wonder whether food lovers are their own worst enemies. They discover something new, fresh and exciting, and embrace it wholeheartedly. They talk, with evangelical zeal to anyone who will listen about this new gastronomic wonder, and wouldn't-you-know-it other people actually listen. Before you can say 'latest gastronomic trend', it IS the latest gastronomic trend. Whichever is the establishment or culinary movement-du-jour becomes popular and suddenly the food fans don't want to know any more. Why, if the actual experience and food continues to be good quality, would you turn your back simply because a few other folks have caught on?

The 'Gastropub' is one such trend. When the gastropubs first arrived, food fans went crazy, travelling across town to sample the latest big name spread by word of mouth. But when other people started to cotton on to the movement, it began to be derided and lost its desirable and trendy status. I don't understand any of this. I remember the pubs of old. I remember smoky, stinky places, with dingy decor and miserably threadbare carpet serving food which often was ready frozen and simply heated up in the oven. Pub food used to be the same everywhere, and the most exciting thing on the menu was onion rings. Those bad old days were replaced by the Gastropub, making a night out drinking an informal and pleasant experience and a Sunday lunch genuinely relaxing. But somehow this is not what the food fans are interested in any more. My mind boggles that suddenly it is fried chicken, sliders, and "reclaimed fast food" which appear to be the latest food trend when actually there continue to be amazing pubs serving great food.

The Gun in London's Docklands is a pub with unique historical pedigree. Literally across the river from the O2 Millenium Dome, it has nautical history in spades. What other pub can boast that it was the scene of Admiral Lord Nelson's secret meetings with Lady Emma Hamilton? It's a lovely old style pub building with wood panelling, beams and wood burning fireplaces. 

I recently visited it for Sunday lunch as I had heard very good things about it. Somehow Him Indoors and I managed to go on a sunny Sunday (wonders of English weather never cease!) and rather than sit in the comfy and cosy interior, we chose to sit outside with beautiful views of the river. 

You need to make hay when the sun shines, and we had every intention of doing so! 
The view from the terrace on a lovely sunny day

Onto the food.....

I was pretty shocked when Him Indoors decided to order the salad. He doesn't mind the odd salad every now and then, but rarely orders it when we eat out. Even more surprising was the fact that it was a vegetarian salad. However, he has recently taken to being a lot more adventurous with his menu choices, and at least this means I get to try something completely different that I might not have ordered myself. 

Evesham asparagus, pea and radish salad, caramelised seeds, blood orange dressing £7.50

So here is Him Indoors' salad. It has a few pea shoots for their leafy texture, some lovely sweet spring peas, and shavings of seasonal asparagus. To give a little crunch and flavour punch, there are French style stubby red and white radishes. The soft cheese was gentle and delicate but not bland. I particularly liked the caramelised seeds, they were not overloaded in their lightly burnt sugar coating, just enough to give crackle and sweetness. It is something I would like to attempt at home as an alternative to plain seed salad sprinkle. An original combination of textures and tastes, well presented.

My choice was the "starter special of the day", the Duck Liver Parfait, £8 

Here was my Duck Parfait, generously spread on toasted brown bread,. The parfait was creamy, smooth, and satisfying. For a change, the bread to pate ratio was perfect, since I find it very annoying when you get a lovely big pot of pate with not enough bread, making you feel greedy and guilty when you need to ask for more. The parfait came topped with finely sliced fried duck liver and onions. By the side was a fruity passionfruit coulis, cutting through the unctuous parfait and salad leaf sprinkled lightly with vinaigrette. Rustic yet sophisticated, this is exactly what good Gastropub food ought to be.

Because it was Sunday, we had to have the roast dinners. We had the choice of other dishes. We could have gone for the Braised Yorkshire rabbit (£18.50) or Wild garlic poached Scottish salmon fillet (£17.50). I had felt tempted by the "surf and turf" option of Pan fried fillet of Cornish John Dory with roast Old Spot pork belly, pickled cabbage, liquorice jus (£24), but had a feeling it was more than I could handle by myself. The special of the day was overnight braised veal on a bed of risotto and the vegetarian option was Asparagus risotto (£14). Sometimes, you just want a roast, and today was one of those Sundays.

Him Indoors chose the Beef roast as his main course. Here it is:

Roast rump of Cumbrian Shorthorn beef, fresh horseradish, Yorkshire pudding, gravy, roast potatoes, honey glazed carrots and green beans £17.50
Ordered medium rare by Him Indoors, this was incredibly tender. Perhaps cooked a little beyond the level requested, this was still delicious and highly enjoyable. The roast potatoes were fluffy on the inside and crispy on the outside, just how they ought to be. 

I went for the Pork option, which I am sure you will agree looks fabulous. 

Roast belly of Kilravock Farm pork, apple sauce, Yorkshire pudding, sage gravy, roast potatoes, honey glazed carrots and green beans £17.50
I was very surprised with how much pork I actually received on my plate. This was a very generous double belly portion! The pork was cooked well, not overdone. I was very pleased with my choice. My only criticisms are that I prefer my parsnips parboiled before roasting, but this is a very small quibble. Secondly, I prefer more crackling. Here the crackling was only crispy and crunchy in places. But having said that, I thoroughly enjoyed a roast dinner which was made with care, dedication and attention to detail. The beans were just cooked with a decent bite. The carrots had a good hint of sweetness, and retained their texture. These were not the overboiled veg that some of us will remember from pub lunches of old; greying, soggy and cooked to a pulp.

There was simply no space for desserts after those platefuls. It's a shame, as we saw other diners scoffing some very nice looking puddings. 

The service at The Gun was very good indeed. I would describe it as non-intrusive and thoughtful. We were given a sensible amount of time to choose our food, it wasn't brought too quickly, the courses were spaced out well, and when we were deep in conversation we were not disrupted. Exactly what you want on a pleasant lunch for two. 

We had a very good lunch indeed and will definitely be back. Maybe we will have enough space for afters on that occasion!

Snigdha and Him Indoors paid for their Sunday Lunch using their much overused debit card.  

The Gun on Urbanspoon

Friday, 10 May 2013

Hélène Darroze at the Connaught

Every now and then you have to treat yourself. You need to take your feet off the metaphorical treadmill, relax and give yourself a little of what you fancy. Because it does you good. We cook a lot at home, and often shop around for food and groceries here, to save a little money there. So that when we want to really go to town, we don't feel guilty. Obviously, Hélène Darroze at the Connaught is a classy place. It has 2 Michelin stars, for goodness' sake! So we were expecting luxury, great food, and a memorable experience. Thankfully, our expectations were deliverered all round.

Hélène Darroze comes from the Landes / Gascony region of France. She comes from the south west of the country, close to the Spanish border. In this area, there is some cross fertilisation between French and Spanish ingredients and techniques. This region is home to foie gras and armagnac. Wine making and brandy distillation are key industries. Being on the coast, it is no surprise that food in Landes features a lot of fresh seafood. 

We opted for the 3 course lunch with two glasses wine, petit fours and tea or coffee for £42.00 each. As I said, this was a treat, and not something we would do frequently. Every now and then, when you've worked hard you must say to yourself the words of the advert 'because I deserve it'!

Before we began the meal proper, was the customary offer of a bread roll with butter. The bread smelt irresistable; freshly cooked and still warm! There was a choice of a mini-baguette, wholemeal roll and this rather unusual looking offering:

Upon enquiry we were informed it was a Butter Roll, and that it was our waitress' favourite of all of the breads available. Very rarely have I been steered wrong by a recommendation, so I was more than happy to give it a go. It turned out to be fluffy yet moist and completely and utterly buttery. It smelt of butter, had the colour of butter inside, and was just full of buttery perfection. Did I mention it was buttery? My arteries will probably not thank me for eating it, but my tastebuds and tummy both groaned in delight.

Black and creamy Carnaroli Acquerrello rice, sautéed calamari with confit tomato and chorizo, slightly bitter jus with parsley, Parmegianno Reggiano foam
Well, other than the Parmeggiano foam, I have to confess that this dish looks horrible. And the squid ink is so thick, it coated my lips, making Him Indoors more than a bit worried that I looked like a complete nutter. However, in terms of flavour, it is wonderful. I've had Arroz Negro in Barceloneta, and Squid Ink linguine in Sicily. I enjoy the subtle seafood flavour and creaminess that squid ink gives a dish. But this is a new level of wonderfulness. Seriously. It is a triumph of contrasting flavours, counterpointed textures and masterly technique. The parmesan foam is full of umami flavours, balanced by the paprika oils oozing from the chorizo. 

Brittany cauliflower ravioli with mascarpone, blue lobster, black truffle condiment
The blue lobster was light, fresh and cooked until literally just done. The ravioli made of handmade pasta which was neither heavy nor thick. Just enough to envelop the cauliflower filling without becoming dominant. The gentle aroma of truffle brought all the flavours and textures together; the aromatic yet gentle cauliflower, creamy mild mascarpone, delicate lobster and toothsome pasta. 

Roasted XXL Scottish scallop on its shell with yuzu butter from Maitre Bordier, razor clams marinière with Japanese mushrooms, spinach and shiso baby leaves, lemongrass cappuccino
Scallops should be slightly sweet, meaty in texture and completely delightful. Only, however, if they have been cooked until JUST done. Once beyond that point, they run a very substantial risk of being chewy, rubbery and tasteless. I know, i've tried cooking them several times. Quite literally a minute over, and they're quite ruined. It's a stress that I'm not sure I can cope with, if I am completely honest. So, scallops are a dish I often order in restaurants. Better that people who are good at the critical management of timing cook them; they are noble beasts, scallops, and should be done justice. Here they certainly were. 

Parmentier of "Axuria" milk-fed lamb from Pyrénées, white coco beans from Bearn with pimientos del piquillo, pissalat jus with anchovies from Cantrabrique
The lamb itself was tender and full of flavour. The sauce, I confess was a little rich for me. A full portion of the dish would have been overwhelming. 
 I didn't order this dish; Him Indoors had the following verdict:
"Very tender, beautifully cooked. The sauce was very strong. You wouldn't want too much. Still enjoyable, however. I do feel it may have been overseasoned with salt. The bean accompaniment was fragrant and flavoursome. Beautiful smell, beautiful taste."

Pineapple, long pepper cream, lime and vanilla granite, crispy banana
The biscuit in the picture is flavoured with vanilla and is light and crispy. It complements the granite and cream perfectly, allowing for textures and flavours to meld and yet contrast and complement each other. The picture makes it look unfairly plain and uninteresting, which is a terrible disservice. This was a lovely dessert, made  with great love and care. 

Carupano chocolate and feuillitine slice, fresh candied kumquats, cocoa almond crumble

You will see the smooth chocolate sauce being drizzled over the dish in my picture. It looks great, doesn't it? 

Well, it tastes as creamy, rich and gorgeous as it looks. The slice is just the right balance between chocolatey indulgence and lightness. The kumquats provide a bit of a syrupy sauce, whose citrus freshness cuts through the creamy richness of the chocolate. The subtle crumble gives a contrasting texture. This pudding was recommended to me by the staff, and they didn't steer me wrong in any way. 

The waiting staff were helpful, courteous and recognised when to leave you well alone. I found them to be extremely warm and professional. In particular our Sommelier was kind, obliging and full of the enthusiasm for his subject. I greatly value service of this kind when making a substantial investment of hard earned cash into a 'special' meal out with my hubby, Him Indoors. 

Time Out said of Darroze that she is "sincere, thoughtful, restrained". I would agree; she has achieved a wonderful mix of comfort, luxury and refinement without being fussy or precious. It is classy, but without undue formality. It is elegant without being rigid. Definitely worth visiting, particularly for a special treat (birthday or anniversary would be ideal).

Him Indoors and I deferred paying to our next credit card bill. It has taken me so long to post this review that the bill has now been paid in full.

Hélène Darroze at the Connaught
Carlos Place
Mayfair
London
W1K 2AL
(020) 7499 7070


Hélène Darroze at the Connaught on Urbanspoon

Friday, 19 April 2013

Chino Latino, Vauxhall (Pan Asian cuisine)



I recently was given the opportunity to tag along with Tasha Miles of the 'Food I Fancy' blog (which you can find here: http://www.foodifancy.com/ ) to a review meal at Chino Latino, Vauxhall. I always love spending time with Tasha as she is brilliant fun; effusive, enthusiastic and wickedly funny, so when she asked me, the answer was always going to be a yes! We were given the opportunity to sample the 'Tasting Menu' which normally would cost £48 per person. 



The ethos of the restaurant is providing Pan-Asian food (with a definite bias towards the food of Japan, in my judgment), with an emphasis on sharing food sociably. Hence many of the dishes are developed with ease of sharing in mind, and are generally a little smaller to facilitate this process.



I love sharing food, so I have no issue with this whatsoever. I often try to work out, when eating with others, what we are each ordering, so that we get to try the widest selection of the menu. Dishes are then put in the middle of the table and picked from by everyone, with no hang-ups whatsoever. There are some people who will not completely approve of this, and they are welcome to order and eat their own food. Their loss. Really. 



The restaurant is housed in the Park Plaza Riverbank Hotel, on the Albert Embankment, just across the river from the Houses of Parliament. The restaurant space itself is spacious, with dining parties not sitting too close to each other. The lighting in the room itself is sparing, to allow for chat, but with small very directed spotlights so that the food is nicely illuminated. The decor is more in keeping with a trendy cocktail bar or club, all dark walls and leather panels, but it is not in your face, and I liked the black matte tables; it brought out the best in the presentation of the dishes, in the same way as it does at Hakkasan or Plum Valley. 



Drink wise I went for a Chino Mojito to begin with. Made from Havana Club Añejo Especial rum shaken with limes, mint, sugar, lemongrass and coconut milk, it may not sound appealing on paper. The potential for the coconut milk to be overdone, creating a heavy and very filling cocktail was great. However, the mixology is handled with deft hands here and the subtle lemongrass and zingy lime flavours were allowed centre stage. Very refreshing and pleasant indeed! Tasha opted for the Kiwi Loco, which she reported was very enjoyable. Thereafter we had wine, opting for the Sancerre La Fuzelle, Adrien Marechal, 2009.  

So, what about the food? Well, here goes:



Crispy soft shell crab California rolls



This is a spin on your typical sushi, with battered, fried soft shell crab as the filling to the sushi rolls. Rolled in tobiko (fish roe), you get the lovely salty explosion of the eggs in your mouth as you chew, adding texture and balance to the flavours. It was served with generous amounts of garnish (I always find I never get enough of the pickled ginger which is one of my favourite things about sushi!) meant we had plenty incendiary wasabi to add bite! The soft shell crab was perfectly cooked, not doused in claggy batter. It was light and was crunchy on the outside yet yielding on the inside. A favourite item from the meal for me.




Beetroot salad


This dish is one of the hidden gems of the menu. It doesn't sound like much from the description above, does it? But these little towers made of circular layers of marinaded beetroot, fried won ton papers for crunch. topped with microherbs are a real treat. Somewhat difficult to pick up with chopsticks, which is a shame. Tash's idea is that these are served on the little Chinese style China spoons, so you can put a whole tower in your mouth in one go. I think this is a superb idea, which would make this dish perfectly easy to eat as well as well presented. 






Seared white tuna

White albacore tuna wrapped in white asparagus, which was cooked to perfection. 



Grilled scallops



Our second 'little dish' was large and meaty scallops served with a topping of microherbs and crushed wasabi peas. This was food heaven; really well prepared, cooked and presented. 




Pork, crab and glass noodle samosas



The combination of ingredients used for the filling are typical of Vietnamese style Spring rolls. However, I am not sure they worked so well with Indian Samosa pastry. For me, it's all about the ratio of filling to skin. There was too much pastry here. And the filling itself wasn't a good enough balance of the three ingredients used. The crabmeat's flavour and texture was swamped. Ideas for dishes which involve a fusion of the ingredients or techniques from different nations are not something I am against per se; they can work, and work well, but in this instance it was a fusion for the sake of it. Had the far thinner Spring roll 'pastry' been used, it would have been far more effective. The dip was a lime and coriander yoghurt sauce, which could have done with a little chilli kick to it to lift it. 




Sirloin steak on hot rocks 180g



Marinaded steak cooked on oven baked rocks, topped with fried garlic, chives and sesame seeds. The steak is then drizzled with a soy and mirin glaze at the table for a moment of pure theatre, as it fizzles and sputters. The steak is done medium rare, and you leave it on the rocks for as long as you wish, depending on how you like it. Care is required, as it can cook rapidly! We were informed that the extreme heat of the rocks is achieved by baking them in the oven for a full day. I found this dish to be full of flavour. But any overcooking is entirely down to the customer - vigilance is needed! This should be the signature dish of the restaurant; bravo!



Black cod spicy miso



A generous black cod chunk, marinaded in spicy white miso, cooked and served with a piquant sauce, blending sweet, spicy and sour flavours. This is a good dish.






Dessert platter


Passion fruit cheesecake: with a mildly ginger flavoured base, the creamy passionfruit cheese hid a secret chamber full of passionfruit flesh. This was very tasty indeed, but the baked filo pastry topping is strictly for decoration; it was far too dry and powdery to be palatable. This is more of a warning than a criticism!



Fruit selection: presented like the skyline of Tokyo, Hong Kong or Shanghai (towering skyscrapers of cut fruit), this should have been a highlight. Melon, mango, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, starfruit, rambutan, dragon fruit, unfortunately much of it was not ripe enough, leaving a sour tang. Perhaps other, less tropical fruits could be offered early in the year? 



Roulade of mousses wrapped in rice flour matcha flavoured 'marzipan': the mousses themselves were pleasant, but not typically Pan-Asian. The marzipan was a very interesting innovative idea; the matcha flavour was detectable, tasty yet subtle. The marzipan was the most effective part of this dessert, however, after all the other courses, was perhaps too much for me. It was good to see Asian ingredients used in a ground breaking way.



The food was generally very, very good. Care was taken over preparation, the cooking very skilful and the presentation full of colour and drama. I really enjoyed my meal. The restaurant gets a lot of trade from the hotel it is housed in, yet I wonder how many of these guests realise how difficult it can be to get truly tasty Asian food. Chino Latino doesn't really combine South American influences with the Pan-Asian ones in its food, but really the food speaks for itself.



Snigdha would like to thank Tasha and Chino Latino for letting her come to dinner as a guest.



Chino Latino

18 Albert Embankment

London

SE1 7TJ

020 7769 2500



Chino Latino on Urbanspoon

Monday, 25 February 2013

Kao Sarn, Brixton Village: an authentic local Thai restaurant



Thai food is popular in the UK, there is no denying. But is that because we genuinely crave its challenging flavours, or because we've got used to a sanitised version of the cuisine where a dash of curry paste from a pot and a glug of coconut milk makes us feel we've eaten something exotic? Well, whatever your thoughts on the popularity of Thai food, if you want to strip away the panderings to western palates of workaday pubs serving Thai food and supermarket jars of red and green curry sauce, this is the place.

Having visited Thailand and experimented at home regularly with making various dishes, I now feel that I have some idea for what tastes authentic and what does not. My own efforts don't always measure up, but then, when you are working from a Som Tam recipe (Spicy Papaya Salad) calling for 10 chillies to make the dressing, you might also balk at true authenticity!

Situated under the railway bridge in Brixton Village, this is a small restaurant which has gained quite a reputation. Not for being a showy place for fine dining, but rather an informal cafe style place with no frills but good food. Having been brought on a Gastronomic tour of Brixton by Food I Fancy blog's lead author and founder Tash, I was keen to investigate! (Tash's excellent Food I Fancy blog cab be found here http://www.foodifancy.com/) 

Because Tash was such an easy going host, I was given the choice of eating outside or inside. Perhaps it is my age, but my circulation isn't what is used to be. I am cursed with cold, often numb, extremities. I love my fingers and toes, but often doubt if they are still connected. So given the choice, I plumped for inside. Other diners may want to note that the management kindly provide fleecy blanket wraps for those eating outside. It's a nice touch, and when I am more in touch with my inner granny than I currently am (we are in the semi-denial phase), then I perhaps would accept with greater willingness. 

So, once inside it was time to check out the menu. Typed out on both sides of a single sheet of A4 and laminated, the menu is a small, select assortment of the most popular Thai dishes with a few additions. I found it hard to choose and there were several dishes, both starters and mains that I was in two minds about. If I'd had a bigger appetite, we would have liked to have sampled much more of the menu. 

Moo Ping £4.90
Marinated grilled pork skewers with a tamarind, chilli and palm sugar sauce
One of the guiding principles of Thai food is that the main 4 flavours should all be in balance with one another. So the marinade, once cooked, takes on a caramel sweetness, with a touch of spice. The dipping sauce has a tangy flavour just on the sour cusp of the more familiar sweet and sour taste you'd find in standard shop bought Thai sweet chilli sauce and the chilli, although sparingly added packs enough punch to bring the whole dish together. This dish was a treat, and we both thoroughly enjoyed it. 



Goong Tod £5.90
King Prawns in batter with dipping sauce 
This was quite good, without going overboard. The prawns were a decent size. The dipping sauce was NOT a shop bought See Woo special, but a homemade blend with subtlety and sophistication. My criticism is that I had expected a lighter and fluffier batter. But then, if I had eaten this somewhere else, I would probably have been pleased with it. It's funny how elastic your expectations can be. Given how good the skewers were, this paled by comparison, and were just a little greasy.

Yum Woonsen £6.90 
King Prawn, Minced pork and glass noodle salad
Glass noodles are thin noodles, less than 1mm in diameter which rather than being made out of rice or flour, are made of mung bean flour. As a result, when cooked they are practically transparent, hence their name. They have a somewhat springy texture which makes them more pleasing and less bland than plain rice noodles. The salad dressing was a mingling of fish sauce (nam pla), lime juice, palm sugar and, of course, chilli. On ordering I was asked how hot I wanted it, and given the option of hot or medium. Since I am obviously of Indian ethnic origin (being a cup of tea shade of brown all over), it is often assumed I have the chilli defences of a typical Indian person (lead lined mouth, asbestos lips and flameproof stomach). This was one of the many lessons of travelling around Asia which has stayed with me in particular. So I asked how hot the medium is. Our waitress (who I believe is the lovely Gisele) assured me 'hot enough'. It was; hot enough to give the dish kick but not overpower it. In other words, hot enough to send you swiftly to down a glass of water, but not so hot that your nose is streaming. This was a great dish, with herbs, red onion, cooked pork mince and king prawns combining in a wonderful yin-yang balance.  



Massaman beef curry with steamed rice £6.90
Massaman curry originates from the southern region of Thailand. In the south, coconut milk is used for the curry gravy. In the cooler north, this is not the case. "Massaman" translates as 'Muslim' since the people of the south are generally of the Islamic faith. A good Massaman curry will have a deep, cooked-in spicy flavour, thick gravy and chunks of meat which are tender and gently cooked. This was a lovely example of the dish, which I have had both in the UK and in the Muslim south of Thailand. Served with steamed rice, this was a super lunchtime dish. A few wedges of perfectly cooked potato complemented the beef perfectly. 



Many other diners elected for the Pad Thai, and few left any food on their plate. Perhaps the version here is a good one, but this may have to be investigated on a future visit. Sadly no-one ordered the Gai Yang, Khao Neau, Som Tam, the half chicken with sticky rice and papaya salad (£11.50) which we had thought about, but were not quite feeling hungry enough to tackle. We had wanted to see what the dish looked like, but were denied on this occasion. 

Many dishes were served with 'Tai Dow'; a fried egg on the top. Cooked so it is "Just Done", the centre is soft, allowing the egg to be broken over the noodles or rice, providing eggy runny goodness. I am partially allergic to eggs, and so I passed on that, but it was good to see something very familiar from my travels brought to the UK. Him Indoors became particularly fond of 'Tai Dow' and surprised many street food stall holders in Thailand with his order. 

Since we had met for a fairly early lunch, we did not have any alcohol, electing instead for the hot homemade ginger tea (£1.90) and hot homemade lemongrass tea (£1.90). They were warming and pleasant, although I admit I have had better fresh lemongrass infusions elsewhere. Both are available as cold teas if you would prefer. 

Tap water is provided without having to ask by the glass. A much appreciated touch. Particularly when dealing with a goodly amount of birds eye chillis!

This is a very busy place. It is in demand throughout the day. Our staff were very competent, and kept on top of our orders and requests at all times. Other reviewers have made comment about the service received, and I have to say I have no complaints at all. Service was swift, effective and well judged. When glasses of (free) water ran dry, we only had to ask once to be refilled. They had no hope of remuneration in doing so, and I have found the task far more difficult in posher, more highly regarded restaurants.

The restaurant has a BYOB policy, so you can have a very pleasant meal with wine for an absolute song. Currently there is no corkage charge. Seriously! So fill your boots! I recommend a Gruner Veltliner, Gewurtztraminer or Orvieto Amabile. I have tried all of them with spicy and/or chilli adorned food and have found them to be great accompaniments. 

My overall verdict is that this is a place to go for a highly enjoyable and authentic meal. You may need to prepare yourself for a small and intimate restaurant with basic surroundings. If it is luxurious surroundings you desire, go somewhere else. Obviously you will end up paying far more. However, for a special evening out (first date, anniversary, proposal), I would completely understand your choice. 

Tash of FoodIFancy blog and I paid hard earned cash (of the folding variety) for our meal.

Kaosarn
Brixton Village Market
London
SW9 8PR
Tel: 020 7095 8922

 
Kaosarn on Urbanspoon